Post by Lobbie on Oct 23, 2005 7:19:37 GMT -5
G'day,
Having taurght basic air brushing classes to beginners for several years, when working in the Hobby Shop, even though I have retired from the retail side of the Hobby I still get asked by ex customers and other people to help with their airbrushing problems, or just to refresh their skills.
These notes are aimed at the beginner and are the notes I handed the students, before allowing them to use an airbrush on a model subject. The pix are of my models and equipment, as I do not have any pix to share of a brush painted model subject.
To most of us our pre airbrushingmemories revolved around one of the following:-
A:- Brush Painting
B:- Rattle Cans
My F6c Mustang in Tamiya AS-12 with 23 F.G in China markings.
My Tamiya Renault Alpine in the Tamiya Spray Can designed for this model.
Starting today is better than starting 5 kits from now, with a moderate outlay at first you can set up an airbrush and air supply, or an Airbrush/Compressor combination that will allow you to start laying paint almost imediately.
How it Works:
Airbrushes are miniature versions of spray guns used to paint full size machines, either by gravity or suction feed compressed air is fed to the airbrush by either a compressor or pressurized container, which is directed over a small orifice.
The moving air draws the paint from the reservior [cup or bottle] and atomizes the paint to spray a fine narrow mist, the tapered point of the needle in the orifice focuses the spray and controls the amount of paint, there are several brands of airbrushes, in two types to concider, but for most Hobby Suppliers, airbrushes on the market are either Single or Dual Action.
Single Action Units:
These range in design, features and quality, which determines the price, inexpensive units are adequate for applying single colour and would serve as a good basic trainer airbrush.
There is a range of units that have a longitudinal needle for controlling paint flow, such as the Badger 350 or the Paasche H unit, both of these can paint a tri colour cammouflage on a model aicraft, AFV or even a model Ship without any problems.
My prototype Meteor painted using a copy of a Badger 350.
Double [or Dual] Action:
These units offer a better control and a finer spray patern, however thay are difficult to master and more complex to dismantle and clean, they range in design performance as either a gravity or suction feed.
These units can apply a tri colour camouflage to a model, even the mottle, blotching, or the squiggly lines effects applied to Axis Aircraft, with careful application weathering and other effects can be achieved.
My 6x6 painted using an SP 35 airbrush.
![]()
My DB-7b painted using a Lenco 301{similar to the Omni 3000}][/img]
My F4e Phantom II painted using a Paasche VL with a # 1 needle
Poering Up:
No matter what airbrush you choose, your going to need a sourse of air to make it work, two common options are;-
A:- Refillable Cylinder
B:- Compressor
There are several types designed for airbrushing, which range in price, performance and features, depending on the unit of choice depends on what features have been built into the compressor unit.
It is esential that a moisture trap and or a pressure bleed adjustment be fitted, to the airbrush hose as all piston driven compressors generate moisture. Most airbrushes work best when operated between 10 - 20 PSI when the button is depressed.
Having made your choice to power your airbrush we move on, so what's next ?.
This is my Compressor Unit, a 1/8 HP [custom made]
Paint:
Ah yes the paint, [the model looks baren in bare plastic] there are three main types of paint designed for modelling and they are either, Acrylic, Enamel or Laquer, but you simply can't fill your airbrush with paint and spray your model.
some Acrylic, Enamel and Laquer paints are pre thinned for airbrushing use and even these need to be mixed before use, by stiring the paint in it's original container, the pigment [the heavy clump on the bottom], needs to be mixed thoroughly before using it.
Keep stiring untill the heavy clump has been mixed, with the liquid part of of the paint mixture, because most paint are produced for brush painting only.
So they must be thinned down to spray onto your model, don't add the thinner to the original paint container, use a measuring cup or even an old paint tin or bottle, start by adding 1 part of thinner too 2 parts of paint, if nesseccary you can always add more thinner or paint if need.
Stir the paint/thinner mix thoroughly before using it, as a good thinner/paint mix is about the consistancy of [low fat] milk.
And remember your new airbrush is an engineering marvel and a delicate instrument.
Surface Preperations:
This area is always over looked, but either a flat light grey primmer mix, [or even a can version of model surface primmer], can be used as either of these primmer forms will show any blemishes on your model surface, because the fisrt coat from the airbrush will only make them worse, with that out of the way we move onto, the airbrush and how to use it to complete your model.
Your airbrush can produce a beutiful thin smooth layer of paint, so always test shoot your loaded airbrush's flow prior to applying paint to your model, as most airbrush users will test shoot onto a piece of plastic sheet, or even an old model as a means of testing, by spraying a few paterns at first, this will give you an idea of how your airbrush and paint selection are handling and what to expect with your model surface.
Don't spray onto paper or cardboard as these are grainy and will give your test spray a fury texture, also don't aim your loaded airbrush at your model and then press the trigger.
Paint build up on the tip of the nozzle will lift off with the first blast of air and land on your model as a splatter, instead aim off the model, press the trigger and sweep across the area of the model surface, that is being painted and stop the paint/air flow once your aim is past the model.
If you make a mistake, don't attempt to wipe it off, the soft paint will only smear and ruin your model, let it dry as you can always paint over the mistake later.
Camouflage Schemes:
This is where airbrushes really show there potential, before going any further, think ahead and paint the lighter colour to the entire model, this will serve in two ways:-
A:-Ensure the entire model has a coat of paint
B:-The colour will serve as a primmer on your model [if not primmed beforehand].
For the best results wait a couple of days between colours, this way you can give the underlaying paint time to cure, now you can add the darker colours of paint to your model, you can do this an any of the following ways.
Free Hand
Masks or Templates
Some modellers prefer the free hand style with the soft feathered edges, some will use a soft lead pencil to draw guide lines and some will use templates formed from paper, or masking tape to create the sharp edges of a splinter scheme.
![]()
My Kiowa model showing a tri colour camouflage, painted free hand.[/img]
After a while you'll become hooked and find yourself using the airbrush on evry modelling project and wonder why you didn't pick up an airbrush sooner.
I'll explain my way of either a tri or multi colour scheme on model aircraft:
I paint the entire under surface first , when dry areas are masked of [around tailplanes and demarcation lines of the lower fuselage, or on the cowlings] the Dark Earth {or lightest upper colour}, is applied then the Dark Green {or darker of the upper colours}, then left to dry, before applying a clear coat and decals.
NOTE:
The compressor and airbrushes Paasche H and VL along with a Lenco 301, shown in the pic are the main airbrushes I use for my models and the units I use when asked to teach someone at home, or some will bring their own airbrush and compressor units.
My unit is fitted with an adjustable air flow regulator control, moisture trap, and pressure guage, this can operate from 5 - 70 PSI and is mainly set at 15 PSI when the trigger is depressed.
It has a control valve fitted to shut down at 80 Lb and restart at 20 Lb.
Having taurght basic air brushing classes to beginners for several years, when working in the Hobby Shop, even though I have retired from the retail side of the Hobby I still get asked by ex customers and other people to help with their airbrushing problems, or just to refresh their skills.
These notes are aimed at the beginner and are the notes I handed the students, before allowing them to use an airbrush on a model subject. The pix are of my models and equipment, as I do not have any pix to share of a brush painted model subject.
To most of us our pre airbrushingmemories revolved around one of the following:-
A:- Brush Painting
B:- Rattle Cans
My F6c Mustang in Tamiya AS-12 with 23 F.G in China markings.
My Tamiya Renault Alpine in the Tamiya Spray Can designed for this model.
Starting today is better than starting 5 kits from now, with a moderate outlay at first you can set up an airbrush and air supply, or an Airbrush/Compressor combination that will allow you to start laying paint almost imediately.
How it Works:
Airbrushes are miniature versions of spray guns used to paint full size machines, either by gravity or suction feed compressed air is fed to the airbrush by either a compressor or pressurized container, which is directed over a small orifice.
The moving air draws the paint from the reservior [cup or bottle] and atomizes the paint to spray a fine narrow mist, the tapered point of the needle in the orifice focuses the spray and controls the amount of paint, there are several brands of airbrushes, in two types to concider, but for most Hobby Suppliers, airbrushes on the market are either Single or Dual Action.
Single Action Units:
These range in design, features and quality, which determines the price, inexpensive units are adequate for applying single colour and would serve as a good basic trainer airbrush.
There is a range of units that have a longitudinal needle for controlling paint flow, such as the Badger 350 or the Paasche H unit, both of these can paint a tri colour cammouflage on a model aicraft, AFV or even a model Ship without any problems.
My prototype Meteor painted using a copy of a Badger 350.
Double [or Dual] Action:
These units offer a better control and a finer spray patern, however thay are difficult to master and more complex to dismantle and clean, they range in design performance as either a gravity or suction feed.
These units can apply a tri colour camouflage to a model, even the mottle, blotching, or the squiggly lines effects applied to Axis Aircraft, with careful application weathering and other effects can be achieved.
My 6x6 painted using an SP 35 airbrush.
My F4e Phantom II painted using a Paasche VL with a # 1 needle
Poering Up:
No matter what airbrush you choose, your going to need a sourse of air to make it work, two common options are;-
A:- Refillable Cylinder
B:- Compressor
There are several types designed for airbrushing, which range in price, performance and features, depending on the unit of choice depends on what features have been built into the compressor unit.
It is esential that a moisture trap and or a pressure bleed adjustment be fitted, to the airbrush hose as all piston driven compressors generate moisture. Most airbrushes work best when operated between 10 - 20 PSI when the button is depressed.
Having made your choice to power your airbrush we move on, so what's next ?.
This is my Compressor Unit, a 1/8 HP [custom made]
Paint:
Ah yes the paint, [the model looks baren in bare plastic] there are three main types of paint designed for modelling and they are either, Acrylic, Enamel or Laquer, but you simply can't fill your airbrush with paint and spray your model.
some Acrylic, Enamel and Laquer paints are pre thinned for airbrushing use and even these need to be mixed before use, by stiring the paint in it's original container, the pigment [the heavy clump on the bottom], needs to be mixed thoroughly before using it.
Keep stiring untill the heavy clump has been mixed, with the liquid part of of the paint mixture, because most paint are produced for brush painting only.
So they must be thinned down to spray onto your model, don't add the thinner to the original paint container, use a measuring cup or even an old paint tin or bottle, start by adding 1 part of thinner too 2 parts of paint, if nesseccary you can always add more thinner or paint if need.
Stir the paint/thinner mix thoroughly before using it, as a good thinner/paint mix is about the consistancy of [low fat] milk.
And remember your new airbrush is an engineering marvel and a delicate instrument.
Surface Preperations:
This area is always over looked, but either a flat light grey primmer mix, [or even a can version of model surface primmer], can be used as either of these primmer forms will show any blemishes on your model surface, because the fisrt coat from the airbrush will only make them worse, with that out of the way we move onto, the airbrush and how to use it to complete your model.
Your airbrush can produce a beutiful thin smooth layer of paint, so always test shoot your loaded airbrush's flow prior to applying paint to your model, as most airbrush users will test shoot onto a piece of plastic sheet, or even an old model as a means of testing, by spraying a few paterns at first, this will give you an idea of how your airbrush and paint selection are handling and what to expect with your model surface.
Don't spray onto paper or cardboard as these are grainy and will give your test spray a fury texture, also don't aim your loaded airbrush at your model and then press the trigger.
Paint build up on the tip of the nozzle will lift off with the first blast of air and land on your model as a splatter, instead aim off the model, press the trigger and sweep across the area of the model surface, that is being painted and stop the paint/air flow once your aim is past the model.
If you make a mistake, don't attempt to wipe it off, the soft paint will only smear and ruin your model, let it dry as you can always paint over the mistake later.
Camouflage Schemes:
This is where airbrushes really show there potential, before going any further, think ahead and paint the lighter colour to the entire model, this will serve in two ways:-
A:-Ensure the entire model has a coat of paint
B:-The colour will serve as a primmer on your model [if not primmed beforehand].
For the best results wait a couple of days between colours, this way you can give the underlaying paint time to cure, now you can add the darker colours of paint to your model, you can do this an any of the following ways.
Free Hand
Masks or Templates
Some modellers prefer the free hand style with the soft feathered edges, some will use a soft lead pencil to draw guide lines and some will use templates formed from paper, or masking tape to create the sharp edges of a splinter scheme.
After a while you'll become hooked and find yourself using the airbrush on evry modelling project and wonder why you didn't pick up an airbrush sooner.
I'll explain my way of either a tri or multi colour scheme on model aircraft:
I paint the entire under surface first , when dry areas are masked of [around tailplanes and demarcation lines of the lower fuselage, or on the cowlings] the Dark Earth {or lightest upper colour}, is applied then the Dark Green {or darker of the upper colours}, then left to dry, before applying a clear coat and decals.
NOTE:
The compressor and airbrushes Paasche H and VL along with a Lenco 301, shown in the pic are the main airbrushes I use for my models and the units I use when asked to teach someone at home, or some will bring their own airbrush and compressor units.
My unit is fitted with an adjustable air flow regulator control, moisture trap, and pressure guage, this can operate from 5 - 70 PSI and is mainly set at 15 PSI when the trigger is depressed.
It has a control valve fitted to shut down at 80 Lb and restart at 20 Lb.
