Post by Bluecorsair on Oct 23, 2005 21:23:59 GMT -5
Hi,
This will go with the pictures under "Zimmerit" in my album down below.
First off I have to say I wish I could take the credit for inventing this system of applying Zimm but, Alas! it's not to be, almost everything I have done is the result of reading other builders' sites, there are a few little things I have found out by trial and error that was not mentioned,(probably because they didn't expect to have someone as thickheaded as me trying it.) This process involves the use of Milliput Super Fine White.
These are the basic tools I needed to get the putty ready to apply:
The putty
A glass or marble flat surface (I got a glass cutting board from Wal_Mart for about $3.00)
Talcum powder
Single edge razor
Medium size paint brush
round toothpicks
Bowl of water
About 6-8 inches of PVC pipe, I use 1/2 inch.
Small S/C,(screwdriver) mine is almost an 1/8 inch wide, I filed down some of the thickness, one day soon I will invest in a Zimm tool because it will last forever, hopefully.
(3 months later)BTW,I now am the proud owner of a zimm tool set by Tamiya!!
[red]1. [/red]Spread some talc onto the flat surface.
[red]2. [/red]Get your putty, pull the plastic covering down a little ways off of the sticks of putty, cut equal parts off of the sticks (it comes with excellent instructions)
[red]3.[/red] Knead the 2 pieces together WELL! Thoroughly mix it with your fingers, takes me about a minute, (actually working this just like bread or pasta dough)
[red]4. [/red]Place the mixed putty onto the talc on the surface and roll it around, the idea is to keep it covered with powder, a much better builder told me he just uses water but it's way too messy for me.
[red]5.[/red] Cover the PVC pipe (roller) with powder, press down on the putty and roll in ONE direction only, if you roll back and forth it WILL stick to the roller. Turn the putty over and making sure it is covered in powder roll 90 degrees from your first direction (spreading, widening the putty out, just like bread dough). Turn it over and repeat till the putty is almost paper thin, I read "paper" thin but... it tears on me when I start applying the Zimm pattern so I go a little thicker.
[red]6.[/red] Cut the putty to the size and shape you desire, I have no luck slicing it, it just pulls with the blade, I "chop" it down the length I want (just pressing down with the razor and then moving down and pressing down again,"chop") Now get the powder OFF of the putty, I use a couple of methods, just dunk the piece you are going to use in the bowl of water or wet the piece and blot on a towel, whatever you do just get the powder pretty much off (the putty will not stick to the model with talc on it.)
[red]7. [/red]Wet the piece of putty you are going to apply and put it on the model where you want it. If it is not an exact fit your screwed! NO, just kidding!
][
)] Sry, I have an overabundance of humor[:-^] *clears throat* If not an exact fit, no biggie, thats what I use the brush for, it not only smooths out the putty, it removes finger prints and cleans up the mess but I can spread the putty to where I need it but I won't do it past about an 1/8 of an inch, I just add another little piece there, the brush, while wet, will spread the putty to an edge or where ever you need it, just don't go too far or you will thin it out so much it will tear.
[red]8.[/red] When you need extra pieces to make the putty fill in where you want, just cut it to shape and following the "no powder" hint, apply it and "weld" it to the original piece by using the wet brush or wet finger, the flat of the S/C works great also, one day I am going to invest in a tiny version of potter's and/or artists spatulas. If you need putty in a tiny little space, just pick off a little piece and "mush" it in there with the S/C or toothpick.
[red]9. [/red]If you have a piece that overlaps where you want it, try to CUT the excess off, try not to PULL it off, as thin as it is the putty is very strong and it will tear unevenly.
[red]10. [/red]O.K., now you have the area filled in but there is putty where you do not want it, at least I do. That is where the brush comes into its own, wet it in the bowl of water, getting all the putty out of it by wiping it on a towel and repeating till it's clean, wet it again and then blot it on the towel to get the excess water out but you still want it wet[%-)], carefully start "cleaning" up the area you want "putty free", clean brush, repeat, it will take all the wet mess and putty off! Great for cleaning the edges and nuts and bolt heads and any protrusions, just wet brush the "milk" and putty off, you will see what I mean.
A little piece of T-shirt helps also, sometimes wrapped around a toothpick.
[red]11. [/red]Now then, you have applied, contoured, smoothed, and cleaned the area, "phew"! Guess what you get to do now?
]
[red]12. [/red]I am using a S/C so this is how I am doing it for now 'till I find something better. Get the S/C and position the model in an advantageous position, I also have to use one of those magnifying glass that has a light in it, with my face stuck to the magnifier I start on one side of the putty area and pointing the S/C in a kinda 45 degree upward posistion (check photos of Zimm on Tiger 1s) I start to press the S/C into the putty, then immediatly below that "jab" I do another, then another, then an...oh! Sry, Got carried away there.
Go down (or up) till you have finished that row, now go back to where you started that row and right next to it press the S/C into the putty, I actually
TOUCH the previous "jab", repeat the "process". What is so cool is that it makes the putty "squeeze UP in that vertical line you see in the photos, as opposed to the method of using a "toothed" tool, like a saw blade. I tried it and it is much faster but... when it comes time to put the vertical lines in you use something like a very dull razor blade and press in the vertical lines, if u build airplanes it is like the differance between "recessed" and ribbed panel lines, one looks realistic, the other does not (this only applies to the horizontal version of Zimm that was applied to Tigers) . O.K., when you start to jab in the Zimm you will get the hang of it immediatly and start to wonder why you didn't do this before. Don't cover too big an area, the front of mine was almost too big!! I have read that you can work with this putty up to 3 hours, not me, in an air conditioned room I have just over an hour before it starts to become too hard. The front you see took me an hour from the time I put the glass surface on the table till the last "jab", including picture taking time. Just do increments till you think you can do..whatever. O.K., you are done!! Here are a few sites I like, One even has the ONLY running Tiger 1!!
tiger1.info/saumur/english/couleurs.html
www.alanhamby.com/gallery.html
www.tigertank-h-e-181.com
Search [red]tiger1.info[/red]
Thankyou everyone for allowing me to help out, At least I hope I did.
An addendum:
1.) IF the putty pulls away while you are "jabbing" in the Zim pattern let it dry a little more, it has just happened to me, I let it cure for a few minutes and it did just fine, apparently there is a period in between "wet" and "acceptable", where it is "tacky". Also, try dipping the tool in water.
2.) Battle Damage: If you want to add this to the zimm, it is best to do it BEFORE it dries[]. Just pick a spot where you want the damage and using a S/C (screwdriver) cut an irregular pattern out, try not to mush the "ridges" together, that looks kinda un-realistic.
Go to my album below and click on "zimmeritt".
photobucket.com/albums/b376/blue_corsair/
This will go with the pictures under "Zimmerit" in my album down below.
First off I have to say I wish I could take the credit for inventing this system of applying Zimm but, Alas! it's not to be, almost everything I have done is the result of reading other builders' sites, there are a few little things I have found out by trial and error that was not mentioned,(probably because they didn't expect to have someone as thickheaded as me trying it.) This process involves the use of Milliput Super Fine White.
These are the basic tools I needed to get the putty ready to apply:
The putty
A glass or marble flat surface (I got a glass cutting board from Wal_Mart for about $3.00)
Talcum powder
Single edge razor
Medium size paint brush
round toothpicks
Bowl of water
About 6-8 inches of PVC pipe, I use 1/2 inch.
Small S/C,(screwdriver) mine is almost an 1/8 inch wide, I filed down some of the thickness, one day soon I will invest in a Zimm tool because it will last forever, hopefully.
(3 months later)BTW,I now am the proud owner of a zimm tool set by Tamiya!!
[red]1. [/red]Spread some talc onto the flat surface.
[red]2. [/red]Get your putty, pull the plastic covering down a little ways off of the sticks of putty, cut equal parts off of the sticks (it comes with excellent instructions)
[red]3.[/red] Knead the 2 pieces together WELL! Thoroughly mix it with your fingers, takes me about a minute, (actually working this just like bread or pasta dough)
[red]4. [/red]Place the mixed putty onto the talc on the surface and roll it around, the idea is to keep it covered with powder, a much better builder told me he just uses water but it's way too messy for me.
[red]5.[/red] Cover the PVC pipe (roller) with powder, press down on the putty and roll in ONE direction only, if you roll back and forth it WILL stick to the roller. Turn the putty over and making sure it is covered in powder roll 90 degrees from your first direction (spreading, widening the putty out, just like bread dough). Turn it over and repeat till the putty is almost paper thin, I read "paper" thin but... it tears on me when I start applying the Zimm pattern so I go a little thicker.
[red]6.[/red] Cut the putty to the size and shape you desire, I have no luck slicing it, it just pulls with the blade, I "chop" it down the length I want (just pressing down with the razor and then moving down and pressing down again,"chop") Now get the powder OFF of the putty, I use a couple of methods, just dunk the piece you are going to use in the bowl of water or wet the piece and blot on a towel, whatever you do just get the powder pretty much off (the putty will not stick to the model with talc on it.)
[red]7. [/red]Wet the piece of putty you are going to apply and put it on the model where you want it. If it is not an exact fit your screwed! NO, just kidding!
][
)] Sry, I have an overabundance of humor[:-^] *clears throat* If not an exact fit, no biggie, thats what I use the brush for, it not only smooths out the putty, it removes finger prints and cleans up the mess but I can spread the putty to where I need it but I won't do it past about an 1/8 of an inch, I just add another little piece there, the brush, while wet, will spread the putty to an edge or where ever you need it, just don't go too far or you will thin it out so much it will tear.[red]8.[/red] When you need extra pieces to make the putty fill in where you want, just cut it to shape and following the "no powder" hint, apply it and "weld" it to the original piece by using the wet brush or wet finger, the flat of the S/C works great also, one day I am going to invest in a tiny version of potter's and/or artists spatulas. If you need putty in a tiny little space, just pick off a little piece and "mush" it in there with the S/C or toothpick.
[red]9. [/red]If you have a piece that overlaps where you want it, try to CUT the excess off, try not to PULL it off, as thin as it is the putty is very strong and it will tear unevenly.
[red]10. [/red]O.K., now you have the area filled in but there is putty where you do not want it, at least I do. That is where the brush comes into its own, wet it in the bowl of water, getting all the putty out of it by wiping it on a towel and repeating till it's clean, wet it again and then blot it on the towel to get the excess water out but you still want it wet[%-)], carefully start "cleaning" up the area you want "putty free", clean brush, repeat, it will take all the wet mess and putty off! Great for cleaning the edges and nuts and bolt heads and any protrusions, just wet brush the "milk" and putty off, you will see what I mean.
A little piece of T-shirt helps also, sometimes wrapped around a toothpick.
[red]11. [/red]Now then, you have applied, contoured, smoothed, and cleaned the area, "phew"! Guess what you get to do now?
][red]12. [/red]I am using a S/C so this is how I am doing it for now 'till I find something better. Get the S/C and position the model in an advantageous position, I also have to use one of those magnifying glass that has a light in it, with my face stuck to the magnifier I start on one side of the putty area and pointing the S/C in a kinda 45 degree upward posistion (check photos of Zimm on Tiger 1s) I start to press the S/C into the putty, then immediatly below that "jab" I do another, then another, then an...oh! Sry, Got carried away there.
Go down (or up) till you have finished that row, now go back to where you started that row and right next to it press the S/C into the putty, I actually
TOUCH the previous "jab", repeat the "process". What is so cool is that it makes the putty "squeeze UP in that vertical line you see in the photos, as opposed to the method of using a "toothed" tool, like a saw blade. I tried it and it is much faster but... when it comes time to put the vertical lines in you use something like a very dull razor blade and press in the vertical lines, if u build airplanes it is like the differance between "recessed" and ribbed panel lines, one looks realistic, the other does not (this only applies to the horizontal version of Zimm that was applied to Tigers) . O.K., when you start to jab in the Zimm you will get the hang of it immediatly and start to wonder why you didn't do this before. Don't cover too big an area, the front of mine was almost too big!! I have read that you can work with this putty up to 3 hours, not me, in an air conditioned room I have just over an hour before it starts to become too hard. The front you see took me an hour from the time I put the glass surface on the table till the last "jab", including picture taking time. Just do increments till you think you can do..whatever. O.K., you are done!! Here are a few sites I like, One even has the ONLY running Tiger 1!!
tiger1.info/saumur/english/couleurs.html
www.alanhamby.com/gallery.html
www.tigertank-h-e-181.com
Search [red]tiger1.info[/red]
Thankyou everyone for allowing me to help out, At least I hope I did.
An addendum:
1.) IF the putty pulls away while you are "jabbing" in the Zim pattern let it dry a little more, it has just happened to me, I let it cure for a few minutes and it did just fine, apparently there is a period in between "wet" and "acceptable", where it is "tacky". Also, try dipping the tool in water.
2.) Battle Damage: If you want to add this to the zimm, it is best to do it BEFORE it dries[
]. Just pick a spot where you want the damage and using a S/C (screwdriver) cut an irregular pattern out, try not to mush the "ridges" together, that looks kinda un-realistic. Go to my album below and click on "zimmeritt".
photobucket.com/albums/b376/blue_corsair/
