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Post by crockett on Oct 7, 2005 20:29:47 GMT -5
This my second try at applying zim with the soldering gun. I am sold on this method and I have officially retired the putty and talcum powder (mess). Tell me what you think so far on my DML late kitty (command version). Here is my first try, the AFV Club late Tiger 1: regards, Steve
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spamicus
Beginning Member
Let's keep in mind a model is a small imitation
Posts: 16
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Post by spamicus on Oct 7, 2005 21:53:24 GMT -5
Looks pretty darn good to me. Personally I'd be pretty nervous about using that technique. I really hate it when I ruin a kit and my wife hates it more, cause, of course it must be replaced.
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Post by seanrgb on Oct 8, 2005 13:58:31 GMT -5
Wow thats a great looking tank
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Post by Bluecorsair on Oct 8, 2005 14:23:25 GMT -5
Wow awesome job!
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Post by feldgrau23 on Oct 8, 2005 21:12:25 GMT -5
Steve that Zim looks great,,,, I have the AFV Tiger late going and I have been using the squadron putty for my zim. Not sure I would feel comfortable doing the soder iron method tho,, just my luck I would put the iron right thru the plastic!!!! Well you seem to have a handle onit so I say stick with what you know!!!!
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Post by Bluecorsair on Oct 8, 2005 21:27:55 GMT -5
Holy cow Steve , now that looks absolutely outstanding Bro, You have definitly got the technique down!!! After seein' this run of pix, I really, really might try your method. I just finished zimming my new KT, but I am very impressed with your Tiger I Steve!!! VERY!!
Cya round buddy, Bill
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Post by armorguy on Oct 9, 2005 19:05:49 GMT -5
Steve,
That zimm looks awesome. I gather that you simply just melt the pattern into the plastic with the tip of the soldering iron? I have Dragons Tiger 1 Late and am looking for a pretty good way to do the Zimm. Do you have any advice with this technique? It looks pretty clean and foolproof.
As for decals, will regular decals go on over the zimm with microset/microsol or would it be better to use dry transfers or to paint them on?
Many thanks.
Jim ;D
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Post by tigertankman on Oct 9, 2005 19:41:19 GMT -5
Hey those are some new pics, looks great Steve!
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Post by crockett on Oct 9, 2005 20:02:07 GMT -5
Thanks everyone-
Jim- Use a 15W iron (IMPORTANT 15W ONLY) with a small conical tip. Mark out the vertical graduation lines on the hull and turret with a pencil to remain in scale. Horizontal grooves should be 3 to 4 mm in length. Practice on scrap to get the hang of it. In tight areas reduce the angle of the tip to gain access, otherwise hold and drag the iron at a slight angle to make a nice little trough. Keeping things on an angle alleviates the "hairlike" strings of melted styrene. This will happen now and then, but it is no big deal as it is easily removed.
Apply light to heavy pressure while you are practicing to acheive your preferred effect.
Good Luck,
Steve
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