Post by crockett on Dec 13, 2005 13:39:03 GMT -5
The Tamiya T2 with the "P" turret. First, a comment on the "Porsche" turret. Dr. Ferdinand Porsche had absolutely NO design input into the so called "Porsche" turret. Both the early production and final production turrets for this vehicle were designed by Krupp. The early turret, of which 50 examples were constructed, was supposed to be fitted to the Porsche Tiger hull, which was rejected.
Enough of history, let's get down to applying the zimmerit. How many German armor modelers are stopped cold in thier tracks when purchasing a kit requiring zim? LOTS OF US!
So, let's look at a simple, easy,clean,cheap and fast method of application. That's right, the Verlinden hot iron application.
First, let me say that I understand most modelers anxiety when faced with "melting" detail into a $40.00 plus model kit. We some how feel safer splotching epoxy putty on the model, fearing we will "burn holes" into our investment. Let me assure you, nothing could be further from the truth. This method is almost foolproof and it is fun!
A few simple preliminary steps are essential for realism. First, mark the vertical spacing on the surfaces to be zimmed with a straight edge and a drafting (automatic) pencil, like this:
This will ensure that you stay "straight" while burning in your pattern. Feel free to completely draw in vertical and horizontal lines for more complex patterns, such as the StuG waffle.
Next, you will need a $10.00 15W soldering iron, available at Radio Shack. Remember, NO MORE THAN 15W!!!
Plug in the iron and let it fully warm up, about five minutes. Take a few practice strokes on the inside of the turret or hull shell, just to get the feel and gage how soft or hard the plastic is.
Then, begin, drawing (burning) your horizontal troughs, drawing the iron backward in between your pre drawn index lines:
Hold the iron at about 30 degrees, drawing back gently,and you will instantly be amazed at how EASY this is. It takes about as much effort and coordination as drawing with a pencil. Soon, you will be on your way to this:
The great thing about this method is the level of detail you can acheive around complex angles and radius':
By simply decreasing the tip angle, you can scribe into tight places and leave details such as mounting holes and brackets intact.
I urge you all to give it a try, you will never look back once you have mastered the technique. Resin zim is expensive and unrealistic. Besides, your tank will have the same pattern as someone else. Putty is fine, but, for the most part looks like cookie dough, way too thick, and totally unrealistic. I have only seen a few "putty jobs" done by a few talented individuals that look credible. Bottom line: try the hot iron, you will love it!
Steve
Enough of history, let's get down to applying the zimmerit. How many German armor modelers are stopped cold in thier tracks when purchasing a kit requiring zim? LOTS OF US!
So, let's look at a simple, easy,clean,cheap and fast method of application. That's right, the Verlinden hot iron application.
First, let me say that I understand most modelers anxiety when faced with "melting" detail into a $40.00 plus model kit. We some how feel safer splotching epoxy putty on the model, fearing we will "burn holes" into our investment. Let me assure you, nothing could be further from the truth. This method is almost foolproof and it is fun!
A few simple preliminary steps are essential for realism. First, mark the vertical spacing on the surfaces to be zimmed with a straight edge and a drafting (automatic) pencil, like this:
This will ensure that you stay "straight" while burning in your pattern. Feel free to completely draw in vertical and horizontal lines for more complex patterns, such as the StuG waffle.
Next, you will need a $10.00 15W soldering iron, available at Radio Shack. Remember, NO MORE THAN 15W!!!
Plug in the iron and let it fully warm up, about five minutes. Take a few practice strokes on the inside of the turret or hull shell, just to get the feel and gage how soft or hard the plastic is.
Then, begin, drawing (burning) your horizontal troughs, drawing the iron backward in between your pre drawn index lines:
Hold the iron at about 30 degrees, drawing back gently,and you will instantly be amazed at how EASY this is. It takes about as much effort and coordination as drawing with a pencil. Soon, you will be on your way to this:
The great thing about this method is the level of detail you can acheive around complex angles and radius':
By simply decreasing the tip angle, you can scribe into tight places and leave details such as mounting holes and brackets intact.
I urge you all to give it a try, you will never look back once you have mastered the technique. Resin zim is expensive and unrealistic. Besides, your tank will have the same pattern as someone else. Putty is fine, but, for the most part looks like cookie dough, way too thick, and totally unrealistic. I have only seen a few "putty jobs" done by a few talented individuals that look credible. Bottom line: try the hot iron, you will love it!
Steve
